11/27/2012

Surfing in San Juan




No 
this isn't Puerto Rico 
But it is another place where people surf like lemmings
And no they haven't fallen from the sky
Nor have they been carried by the wind
It is another sleepy barangay
where Filipino's, German's, American's
and the odd Australian
can make their way onward to the sea

Of course the reasons are obvious
A moment riding a wave
is exhilarating!
And paddling in the cool frothy water
can create a unique sensation for you to experience
But there might be more to it than this
Because the daily heat can be unbearable
as one works in intense tropical air
Homeostasis is certainly a desirable state
as cooling the body to normal temperatures
is a reward for the psyche
and a relief for the body
So whether you decide to contemplate
the enormity and vastness of the sea
it is entirely up to you
But some people experience
a feeling of oneness 

whether they are able to articulate it or not
And if it makes you feel closer to God
so be it
It shall be done
But I do not advise that you become overwhelmed
with the idea
Thinking about Ernest, Mariel and Margaux
is not likely to help
So take it easy
No thoughts of mass suicide are likely to emerge
Besides much of this has turned out to be gobbledygook
anyway
Because many of the stories were based
on the Norwegian species
And these are just ordinary men and women
who come to the beach
They wear French bikinis and elongated shorts
The refreshment is good for the mind
And it provides the workers with a respite
from their daily skulduggery
And for the unemployed a sense of purpose and meaning
Also for those who are good at it
they can wow their friends 

It is a way to relate to the world
A set of skills that can be mastered
And while some people may question
the long-term benefit of the activity
I would say that it might not be the best way
to look at it
Everyone must have a special hobby
And if surfing turns out to be yours
it should not be thought of as anything less than
fine and dandy
So when you are waxing down your surf board
and thinking of the next big wave
Go for it!
Clasp your toes upon the outer edge
and lean your head backward toward the sun
Surfing is a healthy way to enjoy nature
But be careful that you do it right
And above all
take every precaution
so that you are always able to ride again

Article Source

Aucun commentaire:

Enregistrer un commentaire